Installing a New Shower Unit
A successful shower installation needs cautious preparation and a great deal of work. In most cases, you will require to do 3 kinds of tasks: framing walls, setting up the plumbing, and finishing walls.
Preparation
Firstly, you must choose the kind of shower that you want to set up. It is essential to determine whether the chosen shower can dealing with certain systems and can regulate a safe level of water through the boiler. The majority of shower units nowadays are developed to be versatile to different water pressures (such as kept warm water and cold mains).
It is likewise essential to take into account the water pressure and the preparation of the piping and drain for the shower
Different Kinds of Shower Units
Push-on Mixer: The tube and spray parts of the push-on mixer shower unit can be connected to the bath tap based on your requirement, and the water temperature level can be changed through the taps. Push-on mixers are low-cost and exceptionally simple to set up. However, although the tube connection is basic, it is easily dislodged. Furthermore, it is troublesome to adjust the temperature level.
Bath/ Shower Mixer: The pipe and spray of this type of shower are combined with a bath mixer tap, and the temperature level can be changed through the bath taps. It is an extremely low-cost alternative and no additional pipes is included. However, the bath/shower mixers also struggle with bothersome temperature level control choices.
Manual Mixer: The tube and spray of a manual mixer shower unit belong of the wall unit and the hot and cold water materials are linked to a single valve The temperature level and pressure of the water are managed through either one or a variety of knobs (in more pricey showers). Although temperature level control is much easier in manual mixer types, they are more expensive than the formerly discussed mixers. They likewise require extra pipes of hot and cold water system pipes.
Thermostatic Mixer: The hose and spray of this shower type belong of the wall unit and the hot and cold water materials are linked to a single valve here too. It is total with a built-in stabiliser to self-adjust the water temperature level and to prevent it from becoming too hot. One of the most significant advantages of a thermostatic mixer shower type consists of practical temperature control. Nevertheless, it is the most expensive of the various mixer alternatives.
Power Shower: A power shower is a single system containing a powerful electrical pump that can changing both the water pressure and temperature level. This type of shower can be fitted if there is water supply from a cold water cistern and a hot water cylinder. A power shower makes Take a look at the site here the adjustment of both pressure and temperature level easy. On the other hand, it is unsuitable for water heated straight by the shower or where the water is provided by a mix boiler under mains pressure.
Electric Shower: An electrical shower is plumbed into a mains cold water supply and it warms the water electrically. It is very important to note that for this shower type to be installed, the mains pressure needs to be a minimum of 0.7 kg/sq cm (10lb/sq in). The system allows the temperature and pressure to be adjusted via a knob. Models with temperature level stabilisers are much better as they stay untouched by other taps somewhere else in usage within the household. A significant downside of electrical showers is that the control knob only permits the alternative of heats at less pressure, or lower temperature levels at a greater pressure. This is problematic in the winter season when the spray is frequently weak and the mains water is colder. However, this issue is dealt with in some models which are available with a winter/summer setting.
Method
Depending on the kind of shower you want to install, the shower head must either be suited order to avoid its contact with the water in the bath below or the base tray, or it must have a check valve.
Before beginning, it is recommended to mark the positions of the shower head and control, and to plan the pipe-work involved. Furthermore, the drainage system to remove the waste water will need to be prepared. Both positions of the cable path and the shower switch will also need to be considered if an instantaneous or electrical shower system is being installed.
Use the instruction guide supplied with the shower system to fit the shower control.
Before fitting the pipelines that will supply the water to the shower system, it is important to cut off the water supply. In order to secure the pipelines, they must be offered a water resistant covering and also fitted with separating valves. The pipelines can then be buried into the wall and plastered over to neaten the overall look.
Fit the base tray, shower head, and fittings.
Connect the primary shower control to the pipes that will be supplying the water (This might require a female screw thread adapter).
Reconnect the water supply and test the pipes for any leakages, as some might need tightening.
If you are installing an electrical shower, keep in mind to turn off the electrical energy supply before making any electrical connections. When these connections have been made (there should be guidance within the instruction manual), the power supply can be changed back on.
Adjusting Water Pressure to Suit Your Shower
The cold water tank can be raised to a higher height (sometimes just 150mm (6inches)) by fitting a strong wooden support beneath it-- possibly made up of struts and blockboards. If you pick this alternative, the main and circulation pipes will also need to be raised to fulfill the new height of the reservoir.
Alternatively, a booster pump (a single pump or a dual/twin pump) can be fitted. Whichever type is chosen, it needs to be linked into the power supply in order to operate.
Piping and Drainage
It is best to use 15mm size supply pipes, and make the runs to the shower as short and straight as possible so regarding maintain optimal pressure and reduce heat loss. In addition, by reducing the use of elbows for pipeline corners, you can decrease the resistance in the flow of the water supply. You can attain this by flexing the pipes instead.
Most Common Mistakes
# Breaching or overlooking local code restrictions.
# Utilizing pipes that are too small.
# Connecting copper to galvanized without using a brass or dielectric fitting in between the two.
# Not using tape or pipe compound at threaded joints.
# Not leveling your fixtures when setting up them.
# Not installing an air gap filling for fixtures.
read this # Cutting supply stub outs too short to set up the shutoff valves onto after the ended up wall is in place.
# Not effectively lining up tubing into fittings or stop valves. (Requiring the nut onto the compression ring at an angle when the tubing is at an angle will cause a leakage.)
